I just asked this on an other picture, here is the answer.
I used Cornerfix with the CV12mm on the M9. I used a milky plastic and held it directly in front of the lens under an all gray sky and it worked great! Making a profile shot from a gray surface/wall with these super wides is not easy, as you always get a shadow into the picture:-)
I did not try my M-Hologon on the NEX6 or 7 as I had the impression, that the lens was touching the body somehow?
dierk
Greetings Piotrze,
the handling of Hologon is very easy, in most cases You put focus lever at infinity mark (due to Hyperfocal distance of 1.66m). Apperture doesn't need to be corrected at most cases (cause it is constant) and that's it :)
Handling of magenta shift is different story (and it hasn't been that easy up till now). Some of my photos has been left unchanged, because they look moody with "delicate" magenta shift. First I tried Cornerfix, which was advised to me by Steve Watson too :) CornerFix is great software, but it needs some calibration shot and I haven't got useful RAW yet. Every small shadows of calibration shot is seen at result photo after Cornerfix's correction so it is difficult technique to set (using is quite easy by contrary). I think I could get be better results if I could make calibration shot at clear, white background and proper lighting at studio but I haven't got my studio yet.
Above photo is corrected with Photoshop and manually painted extra layer in colour mode. This way I corrected only a border's magenta shift and fade out of light. Every else is untouched as it resulted with Photomatix. Source TIFFs were prepared with Camera Raw to reduce noise and vignetting.
This is an interesting image.I'm curious how do you cope with the fussy 16/8 hologon,i.e. inconvenient operation and strong magenta cast with the NEX7?
Podoba mi się to zdjęcie.Ciekawe jak dajesz sobie radę z tak wymagającym obiektywem jak Hologon 16/8,to znaczy z jego obsługą i mocnym purpurowym zabarwieniem zdjęć z NEXa 7?
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I used Cornerfix with the CV12mm on the M9. I used a milky plastic and held it directly in front of the lens under an all gray sky and it worked great! Making a profile shot from a gray surface/wall with these super wides is not easy, as you always get a shadow into the picture:-)
I did not try my M-Hologon on the NEX6 or 7 as I had the impression, that the lens was touching the body somehow?
dierk
the handling of Hologon is very easy, in most cases You put focus lever at infinity mark (due to Hyperfocal distance of 1.66m). Apperture doesn't need to be corrected at most cases (cause it is constant) and that's it :)
Handling of magenta shift is different story (and it hasn't been that easy up till now). Some of my photos has been left unchanged, because they look moody with "delicate" magenta shift. First I tried Cornerfix, which was advised to me by Steve Watson too :) CornerFix is great software, but it needs some calibration shot and I haven't got useful RAW yet. Every small shadows of calibration shot is seen at result photo after Cornerfix's correction so it is difficult technique to set (using is quite easy by contrary). I think I could get be better results if I could make calibration shot at clear, white background and proper lighting at studio but I haven't got my studio yet.
Above photo is corrected with Photoshop and manually painted extra layer in colour mode. This way I corrected only a border's magenta shift and fade out of light. Every else is untouched as it resulted with Photomatix. Source TIFFs were prepared with Camera Raw to reduce noise and vignetting.
Thanks for Your comment.
Podoba mi się to zdjęcie.Ciekawe jak dajesz sobie radę z tak wymagającym obiektywem jak Hologon 16/8,to znaczy z jego obsługą i mocnym purpurowym zabarwieniem zdjęć z NEXa 7?